Posted by Niels on September 10, 2007

DAY 196  Into the Wild

Wonderous nature and wildlife and friendly people (outside the towns) have become the highlights of our visit to the Solomon Islands. After experiencing the engaging wildlife around Marovo Lagoon we were eager to seek out more of it and set our sights on the conservation island of Tetepare. The island is the southernmost island in the Solomon Islands' Western Province and can only be reached by chartered boat. Transportation is pretty much a nightmare in the Solomons, but with persistence and much patience we did find ourselves in a very humble, open aluminum boat on the way to Tetepare. You'll have to ask us about the harrowing trip in an enraged sea that followed some time later, over a good glass of wine...

On our explorations of the jungle and coast of Tetepare island we saw many interesting natural features. Mushrooms that glow brightly in the night and fireflies that buzz around in the jungles surrounding the camp were particularly impressive. One morning we had an extra guest at breakfast as a fellow island resident, the sleeping snake, had spent the night in a warm corner and was not in a hurry to start its day. Later that day, on a walk to the North side of the island we spotted a saltwater crocodile floating around in the island's brackish lake - fortunately at a safe distance from us.
In most of the South Pacific, the once abundant coconut crab has now almost completely disappeared, but on Tetepare island, the creatures still abound and the population statistics are recorded on a regular basis. We joined one of the rangers one night and were lucky to see more than a dozen of them. Fresh coconut meat is irresistible to these crabs so the bait of a few cracked open coconuts works well to lure them out of their holes in the ground and the rocks.
For a conservation area the island was a bit of a disappointment, perhaps more so after going through such lengths to get there. We especially expected more from a Marine Protected Area that has held that state for many years, but the local underwater wildlife wasn't quite up to par with many other locations in the Solomons or the South Pacific. What the waters surrounding the island do have, are reef sharks - they are teeming with them. You would only have to look towards the shallows for a few seconds to see the telltale fin above the surface, slowly patrolling the area. Snorkeling in these waters was at first a bit of a daunting affair, but in the hour I spent in the water here I only saw 1 shark from close by.

Having heard of another conservation effort on nearby Rendova island, Amy and I decided to move on to see if we could encounter more wildlife there. The rugged, remote coasts of southern Rendova island is where the endangered leatherback turtles come to nest. These huge, soft shell turtles need beaches without an offshore reef to nest on as their leathery shells are not strong enough to withstand scraping across the sharp coral of a reef. To maximize our chances of seeing one of these turtles, we kept watch on the nesting beach one of the nights and had our guide patrol the area another night. Our well intended joined efforts were in vain. We did not get a sight of the gentle giants. Later, we found out that the chance of seeing one of these turtles is actually quite minute, even in the height of the nesting season, which was still a month or two out.
It was worth a shot anyway and our time on Rendova was actually very rewarding. The area is in a remote corner of the Solomons (making it a remote area of a remote area) and the only 'accommodation' is to stay in the traditional villages - another wonderful experience with some great stories for another day. Three days after arriving, it was time to make our way again and we hiked across the island - an insanely strenuous hike - to the other side to catch a boat back to New Georgia island, to a room with a flush toilet, an enclosed shower and a rare, cold beer...

Posted by Amy on September 07, 2007

DAY 188  Bliss at 80 South

Water laps against the posts of our overwater leaf house as I sway in the hammock to create air movement as it is hotter here, 8 degrees South of the equator, than anyplace else we have been. Maybe it is the hammock's perfect fit, or the view out over the vast, placid lagoon, or the peaceful, near silence that is reason for the state of bliss we are in despite the incredible heat.

Five days after arriving in Honiara, and after the all too common dilemmas we encounter in the South Pacific, (full domestic flights, transportation delays and cancellations, lack of reliable information, etc...) we made it by boat through the deep blue, rolling open ocean onto calm blue green waters dotted with islands. Here we caught the first glimpse of the leaf house, built of all local materials, jutting out over the lagoon. Wow.

Almost a week has gone by now as I write this thinking about the days that have wiled away and I really want to stay a bit longer. Niels and I have finally started to get the hang of paddling together in a tipsy, leaky dugout canoe that requires strength to paddle as well as near-constant bailing and there is far too much to see! Right now, for instance, I can see a small shark just 2 feet out from where the veranda is and schools of fish dart and jump a little further out while at least twenty butterflies flutter around a branch nearby. I am still hoping to get a second look at a Monitor lizard that I saw on our first day here. I was so startled by the sheer size (4' in length) that I breathlessly called to Niels to come and see. Not even remotely expecting such a creature made this quite a sight!

Perhaps we'll spend our last two days here just lounging on the veranda spotting the hornbills, parrots and cockatoos that fly from tree to tree in the jungle canopy that surrounds the lodge, but it would be so nice if we can snorkel again as we did a few days ago. Our host and another local man with a motor boat took Niels and me out on the lagoon stopping at small islands, whenever requested, and a reef passage to snorkel. As soon as I got in the water, the underwater world that could be seen from the boat through the clear water, burst into vibrant color. Corals and anemones clung to the sheer wall just below the surface - some as bright as neon - while schools of small and medium sized fish swam about. Perfect "Nemo's" hung out in their swaying anemones while a green sea turtle swam by headed for deeper water. Niels briefly gave chase. The water was so warm that we could have hung out for several hours.

Well, however we spend the next few days in and around Marovo lagoon will easily be added to some of our favorite memories and eventhough we have decided to move on to more adventure, we may very well be back someday.

Posted by Niels on September 04, 2007

DAY 177  "Tumas Cloud"

On our last two days on Ambrym island, I decide to take on the challenge of walking cross-island to climb one of the island's dark, brooding volcanoes. It is said to be a hard, long hike requiring an overnight stay at the base of the mountain. Amy decides to stay in the village, while I set out with a guide to take on Mt. Marum, Ambrym's most active volcano.

When approaching from the North, the trail to the volcanoes winds through lush jungle and coconut groves. It's a pleasant walk, regardless of the constant incline. The sun is out most of the time and my guide and I are making good progress. Suddenly my guide Jonas stops and utters "Wit wit". He has walked into a spiderweb and from what I can make out, this spider bites. The specimen in question is of a decent size, has a hairless brown body and black legs with bright yellow spots. When it has made its way to a branch, we can pass unharmed.

Soon, the trail starts to climb more steeply, winding through thicker jungle dotted with banana trees and the odd banyan tree. Jonas mumbles something along the lines of "wokabout slow" and our pace is reduced to a snail's pace. It's true that he is carrying my big backpack, but it is not nearly as heavy or full as usual and these guys are supposedly used to it. Not so much.
As Jonas does not know more than two words of understandable English and my Bislama/Pidgin is equally bad, I decide to stop asking him questions about the flora and fauna we see opting instead to wonder and make some mental notes to look up a few things later.

Just after 1PM, we arrive at our campsite. Jonas cuts a bunch of leaves from the fern trees all around us and spreads them out on the ground to provide some cushioning for our tent. Then he collapses on the bed of greens and takes a short nap. I just managed to communicate to him that I would like to climb the nearest volcano at around 3PM to see it in both daylight and in the dark. It is rumored that when the ever present clouds on top give way for a few brief moments, a lava lake can be seen down in the crater below.
After Jonas' short nap and some writing for me, we leave camp and start to walk towards Mt. Marum. Slowly again - Jonas is not a fast walker, with or without pack. The approach used by Jonas turns out to be anything but a straight shot. We make a big sideways move across Marum's ash plain of loose gravel-sized dark rock interrupted only by sparse patches of vegetation. The sun is still out in full force so it is quite toasty on the black grounds. The volcano looms large whenever the brush allows a line of sight. Unfortunately, the top of Mt. Marum is getting rather more cloudy and periodically dissapears completely, shrouded in a thick gray layer of water vapor.

After about an hour of walking, the landscape starts to change and the expanse of the ash plain turns to a set of ridges fanning out from the mountain. We continue in what looks like a dried up river bed, climbing up large lava formations and hopping rocks in patches of standing water. It turns out that this river bed is the remains of a lava river and the higher we climb, the more difficult it becomes.
Suddenly, Jonas stops - looking confused- and then walks back and forth a few times between the ridges bordering our lava river bed. At a seemingly random spot, he proceeds to scale the grassy ridge on our right and gestures for me to follow. To my surpprise, I find that there actually steps dug out, making the ascent relatively easy. On the top, there's a nice view of the landscape of steep ridges winding and twisitng their way down the mountain. Jonas and I follow our ridge up towards the now clearly audible rumblings of the volcano.
Gradually the grass thins out and the ridge's sides drop away very steeply. Best to not slide down the sharp lava rock here... After a last push up loose sand, we find ourselves at the edge of the crater. Marum's rumblings are now clearly distinguisable as minor explosions followed by sounds of lava sloshing around and against the sides of the vent.
It is an eerie experience, especially since we cannot see more than 50 meters in front of us. "Tumas cloud" as Jonas aptly - for once - puts it. A real shame. After an hour at the top, in howling winds and intermittent pelting rain, I decide that with the clouds continuously rolling in, there's no point in waiting till nightfall as the lava glow in the dark will also most likely be obscured from view. I vow to return in the morning.
What rests, is the arduous way down the mountain and across the ash plain back to camp. And most of that will be by torchlight...
Against all odds, I make it off the mountain with only a few minors scratches and bumps.

The bed of fern leaves, so carefully prepared by Jonas fails to provide much cushioning at all, so I put my self-inflatable mattress to good use again. Jonas, seems perfectly happy with the ferns.
At first light, the clouds are still out in large numbers so I call off our morning ascent. Instead, Jonas and I pack up camp and walk back to the village of Ranvetlam where we started from, in record time.

Perhaps it is more fitting after all that the elusive view of Mt. Marum's lava lake will - like so many things on the dark, strange island - remain a mystery.

Posted by Niels on September 03, 2007

DAY 176  A Week on Ambrym Island

After spending a few days roaming around Vanuatu's capital, Port vila, and another ten exploring the island of Tanna, we decided to head North and set our sights on Ambrym Island. To many people, the island is a bit mysterious. Its two active volcanoes are often shooting thick ash into the sky and shroud the island in clouds. The interior is made up of dense jungle and apart from a few small settlements in the north, everyone lives near the sea. There are no real roads and ony a few pick-up trucks on the island. The only way to get from village to village is to walk the steep hills or go by small boat or canoe. Many villagers fear black magic posessed by a select few islanders, strengthened in their beliefs by the erratic, destructive behavior of the two mighty volcanoes.

Upon arrival by small plane we took a humble boat to the Northern part of the island. Thick clouds covering the jungle interior rendered the landscape almost monochrome. For two hours we glided through a black sea, under the cover of gray clouds, past black sand beaches only disturbed by the white froth of the waves slapping on their shores. On the way, one of the passengers caught a young yellowfin tuna of which we had a large chunk for dinner that night. Our accommodation proved to be quite basic (again) with only bucket shower and toilet and was unfortunately located somewhat outside the village on a high cliff without any rewarding views. The friendly villagers (down the cliff) on the other hand more than made up for our accommodation's poor location and our host's lack of congeniality.

Soccer is a favorite pasttime of many Ni-Vans (native Vanuatu people) and one morning we accompained the villagers to the far North of the island to attend the Ambrym championship match. In good Vanuatu fashion, the festivities were preceded by too many drawn out speeches by anyone in an even remotely official position and the real match starting many hours later. In order with the villager's great hospitality, we were promptly seated under the makeshift bamboo and tarp canopy with the officials and could enjoy the best views of the frantic game as well as shelter from torrential downpours interrupted by sweltering sunny skies. After a high energy, full length game in the humid and toasty conditions, the team from the North beat their rivals from the West by a score of 1-0.

On another day during our weeklong stay on Ambrym island, we were privied to more of the islander's fine hospitality when we ventured into the Northern interior for an impromptu walking tour of the villages located deep in the jungle. Our guide, Barry, spoke good English so we were able to learn a lot about village culture and customs in these parts. At most places we stopped, we were just as much an attraction to the villagers as they were to us, and without fail, everybody and their brother would come out to see us. It was a day of much rain and many hilly miles but filled with countless interesting encounters, leaving us with many nice memories and a large wood carving.

Ambrym's volcanically and solar heated black sand provides perfect nesting environments for the 'Scrab Dak', the bird better known by its English common name of Megapode. The animal digs down deep into the sand to lay its eggs with are then brooded by the warm sand until the hatchlings crawl out of their eggs and the sand to a life on Ambrym's beaches and amongst its undergrowth. On a trip to a series of hotsprings, a few of the local boys with us dug up three of the Megapode's giant eggs for our enjoyment and to complement next morning's breakfast. Eventhough the eggs were very tasty, we were left with a bad taste in our mouths when we found out a few days later that the eggs were not supposed to be collected this time of year, to ensure that the dwindling population numbers of the Megapodes do not decline any further. We notified the local tourism authority of the unfortunate event in the hope it will not happen again, but we regret not realizing sooner, as we could have prevented the egg snatching :(.

Posted by Niels & Amy on August 06, 2007

DAY 169  Village Life in Vanuatu

There have been times on our trip that we have wished for comforts, times that were hard, even times that we perhaps rather would have been in the comforts of our apartment and former familiar surroundings. Somehow though, it feels like we have known that those times were a means to an end: a tax - as you will - to pay for the times where you'd wish you could stop time to savor in the moments of true discovery and immersion in local, far flung culture: the real deal. These are the times we have just had on Tanna island in Vanuatu. A truly memorable week has just passed. A week we will fondly remember for a long time.

By chance, we stayed with an extremely welcoming and hospitable family that runs a very lovely guesthouse in the shadow of Tanna's main tourist attraction, active Yasur volcano. Unlike touristy resort accommodation in most parts of Tanna, we were able to completely immerse ourselves in the local culture and join our hosts in their daily life, trot along to Independence Day celebrations, assist in making traditional dishes and just follow them around as they shared with us their amazing island and culture. There have been few times that we have felt this fortunate with our surroundings and hosts as we have for the past week.

Our hosts, actually a family of 4 brothers along with their wives and children, did their best to make sure we were entertained, well fed, and rested. It is such a rarity to come across people who are doing something for the sheer enjoyment of it, not just seeing dollar signs - the family was as interested in us and our way of life as we were in theirs. The children were all shy but curious, and as our stay progressed, they spent more and more time following us around and teaching us how to play their version of marbles (played with roundish seeds from the marble tree).

For a week we lived in a very basic, simple way and even though we had pretty much the same meal every day and a water shortage that made it impossible to bathe for 2 days, the time we spent with the family and exploring Tanna Island could very well become the highlight of our travel year.